PAYANIGA

“Do you want to go on a boat ride? I’ll take you to Sangama, Agasthyeshwara temple and bring you back.”

I heard a voice right behind me when I was parking the two wheeler near Gunja Narasimha Swamy temple in T Narasipura (Tirumakudalu Narasipura). I couldn’t see any boats except for few coracle look-a-likes but made of iron (called as ‘kupparike’ in Kannada).

“You mean on those?”, I asked Bhaira, owner of the voice to which I got an affirmative gesture. After enjoying a coracle ride in Nanjanagud few months ago, now it was time for more fun on those floating metals. Those floating objects (‘kupparike’) are mainly used for extracting sand from the river bed. During their non-working hours of sand extraction, they ferry people to the other side of the river. And those boats are 10 to 12 ft in diamter and 1.5 ft deep.

Tirumakudalu refers to the confluence of three rivers – Kaveri, Kapila (a.k.a Kabini) and Sphatika (a mythical spring or lake) – similar to the mythical river Saraswati which joins rivers Ganga and Yamuna in the North. And the place Narasipura got the name because of the famous Gunja Narasimha Swamy temple.

As we drifted along, our conversation continued. Bhaira became our guide along with the job of boatman. Agasthyeshwara temple which is sandwiched between rivers Kaveri (southern bank) and Kapila (northen bank). Legend says that the temple was built by Sage Agasthya, hence the name. And Bhiksheswara temple which is on the northen bank of river Kaveri is said that the temple has links to the Neolithic phase (stone age).

When you stand near the sangama (confluence) of the three rivers and you get to see temples in all directions – Agasthyeshwara temple, Bhiksheswara temple, Moolasthaneshwara temple, Anandeswara temple to name few prominant ones along with the abode of Gunja Narasimha Swamy.

It was around 2PM when I reached the place and unfortunately all the temples were closed. May be thats a sign to visit the place again leisurely. :)

Places in & around Mysore:

• Somanathapura
• Nanjanagudu
• Gopalaswamy betta
• Ranganatittu
• Mysore Palace

Though I’m in Mysore for the last three months, I never stayed there over weekends as I traveled back to Bangalore every week. One fine weekend I had to stay in Mysore and I made use of that Sunday to roam places around Mysore. I managed to visit Keshava temple at Somanathapura that day along with few other places.

The Keshava temple built in thirteenth centuary by Somanatha, the Dandanayaka (general) of the Hoysala King Narasimha The Third. The temple constructed in Hoysala style of architecture, and is a trikootachala (with three sanctums). The temple sanctums are dedicated to Keshava, Venugopala and Janardhana.

The temple is nicely maintained by Archeological Survey of India. Though the place is very close to Mysore, the conditions of roads is not good. I had a very tough time manoeuvring my two wheeler.

How to reach?

Somanathapura is approximately 32 KMs from Mysore. Mysore – 25KMS – Bannur – 7KMs – Somanathapura.

Related links:

• Kaidala
• Belur

When one hears the name ‘Belur‘, next set of names or words that follow are – Channakeshava temple, Shilabalikas, Halebidu, Hoysalas, King Vishnuvardhana, Jakanachari. Off the list, the last one is less known – Jakanachari, the main architect-sculptor behind Belur & Halebidu. And Kaidala, home town of Jakanachari, boasts of having one of the beautiful statue of God Channakeshava (Lord Vishnu) sculpted by him. Kaidala previously known as ‘Kreedikapura’ got the name as Jakanachari got back his right hand after sculpting & establishing statue of Lord Channakeshava.

Channakeshava temple in Kaidala
You will be disappointed if you are reach there expecting the temple premises to be something similar to Belur or Halebidu. This temple of Lord Channakeshava in Kaidala looks like any other temple from outside. And what seperates this temple from any other temples is the masterpiece by Jakanachari. It is said that the statue in Kaidala is one of the last statues sculpted by Jakanachari. Sculpted in a black stone, the status is 6ft tall & the amount of details & intricacy is amazing.

Garuda, the mythological vehicle of Lord Vishnu
The legend says that –

Jakanachari leaves behind his family, wife, unborn child to gain name & fame. Sculpting beautiful statues, constructing temples over a long period of time, all over he reaches Hoysala kingdom where he agrees sculpt deity Lord Channakeshava. Meanwhile his son, Dankanachari leaves home in search of his father. On the day before the Channakeshava idol to be established in Belur, Dankanachari reaches the place & claims that there is a flaw in the statue which was sculpted by Jakanachari. At this time, Jakanachari bets his right hand in case of any flaw in the idol where as his son Dankanachari bets his life. All this happens unaware of their relationship.

Jakanachari cuts his hand after his son finds the flaw – a live frog, water & sand – in the idol. Hence the statue become famous as ‘Kappe Channigaraya’ (Kappe = Frog in Kannada). Later Jakanacahri gets a vision to construct a temple at his home town. Both father-son duo move to Kaidala where it is said that Jakanachari got back his hand after he completed the statue.

Unfortunately the temple in Kaidala is stranded with no one to take care except for the priest & couple of old ladies who clean up the premises. And the legend mentioned above was as narrated by the priest.

PS: Photography is not allowed inside the temple

An unforgettable journey

Places visited during the four day bike trip to West Coast

* The beginning
* Belur
* Yagachi Dam
* Sringeri
* Agumbe
* Around Udupi – Malpe beach & port, Bengre
* Udyavara beach
* Kunjarugiri and Pajaka
* Around Kasaragod – Ananthapura & Madhur
* Bekal Fort
* Manjeshwara & Someshwara

Route taken during the trip –

Day 1: Bangalore – Kunigal – Hassan – Belur – Chikkamagalur – Sringeri – Agumbe – Hebri – Udupi

Day 2: Udupi – Malpe – Udupi – Udyavara – Kunjarugiri – Pajaka – Kaup – Surathkal

Day 3: Surathkal – Mangalore – Kumbla – Ananthapura – Kumbla – Madhur – Kasaragod – Bekal – Kasaragod – Manjeshwara – Someshwara – Mangalore – Kudupu – Kaikamba – Polali – Kaikamba – Surathkal

Day 4: Surathkal – Mangalore – NH48 – Shiradi Ghat – NH48 – Hassan – NH48 – Bangalore