PAYANIGA

Though I’m in Mysore for the last three months, I never stayed there over weekends as I traveled back to Bangalore every week. One fine weekend I had to stay in Mysore and I made use of that Sunday to roam places around Mysore. I managed to visit Keshava temple at Somanathapura that day along with few other places.

The Keshava temple built in thirteenth centuary by Somanatha, the Dandanayaka (general) of the Hoysala King Narasimha The Third. The temple constructed in Hoysala style of architecture, and is a trikootachala (with three sanctums). The temple sanctums are dedicated to Keshava, Venugopala and Janardhana.

The temple is nicely maintained by Archeological Survey of India. Though the place is very close to Mysore, the conditions of roads is not good. I had a very tough time manoeuvring my two wheeler.

How to reach?

Somanathapura is approximately 32 KMs from Mysore. Mysore – 25KMS – Bannur – 7KMs – Somanathapura.

Related links:

• Kaidala
• Belur

After the short trek in the morning we visited Jageshwar later in the day. Jageshwar is a Hindu pilgrim dedicated to Lord Shiva & is at a distance of 35KMs from Almora. Nestled between tall Deodar trees lies this small town where more than 100 small temples are grouped in one premise. Constructed in ‘Nagara’ architecture (temple shikhars in the shape of bee hive), the temples date back to eight and ninth centuries.

Inside the Jageshwar temple premises, smaller temples are dedicated to other gods & goddesses – Vishnu, Hanuman, Lakshmi and more. A light (akhanda jyoti) burns continuously 24/7 in one of the temples & I was told that it’s burning since ages & is still maintained. And a small stream which flows beside the premise adds serenity to the place.

Couple of kilometers from Jageshwar is Dandeshwar temple, another shrine of Lord Shiva. This premise is smaller in size and four-five temples are there along with the main Dandeshwar temple. Both the premises are maintained by ASI (Archaeological Survey of India).

One peculiar sign we observed on almost all the temples was the three faced sculpture on the temple shikharas in both Jageshwar & Dandeshwar. When we enquired about the same with the priests we didn’t get any appropriate answer. And along with this one irritating issue we came across in the temple were the priests. They are no less than any of dacoits in extorting money from the tourists and devotees.

Other published articles on Binsar:

• Binsar, the Kumaon mountains
• Rock Climbing and A Morning Walk
• Zero Point and Binsar wildlife sanctuary
• River Kosi and Nainital

When we started off towards the temple town ‘Melukote’ (Melkote or Yadavagiri or Yadugiri) on a summer day, to be greeted by the misty morning. Our prayers for the same climate went in vain as the temperature soared later. We stopped at couple of places for photo sessions & reached in time for the breakfast.

After savouring the delicious ‘Puliyogare’, we roamed around the place – Cheluva Narayanaswamy temple, akka-tangi kola, Dhanushkoti (there is one here also), Raya Gopura & then Yoga Narasimhaswamy temple (situated on top of the hill).

What amazes me is the number of pushkarinis (kalyani or man made water-body) in a town situated on a hill. And that too most of them filled with water during peak summer.

The day we were there in Melukote was the last day of 10th board exams. A bunch of guys directly came out of the examination hall and jumped into the water to beat the heat & also to celebrate the end of exams ;)

How to reach there:

Bangalore – Mandya – turn right after 4 KMs from Mandya – Jakkanahalli Cross – Melukote

Or

Bangalore – Kunigal – Bellur Cross – Nagamangala – Jakkanahalli Cross – Melukote

“Come saar, I’ll take you to the other side of the river. It’s safe to play in water & take bath” called the boatman, while we were looking for some place on the crowded bank of river Kapila. Though it was 3.30PM the place was crowded, few devotees & many other trying to beat the summer heat. We decided to cross the river on the coracle to avoid the crowd & it was worth the decision. While my friends were enjoying playing in the water, I sat on the sand repenting for not bringing an extra set of clothes.

We started from Bangalore a bit late at 11AM as drive was completely unplanned. We had no particular destination for the day as our idea was to spend a day with friends. We were in no hurry & took our own time to cover the distance from Bangalore to Mysore. After the lunch break at Maddur, we decided to visit Nanjanagudu. We reached the place by 3.30. Another hour spent in playing in the river Kapila. And then we paid a visit to Srikanteshwara temple (temple of Lord Shiva).

Nanjangud is a temple town and is on the banks of the river Kapila (a.k.a Kabini). The place is 23 km from Mysore & around 160KMs from Bangalore. The temple of Lord Srikanteswara was built by the Gangas in 9th century. Nanjanagudu is also famous for ‘rasabaaLe’, a variety of banana & at one point of time (during late 80s) the place was also famous for the ‘Nanjanagudu tooth powder’.

By the time we started back from Nanjanagudu, our stomachs started grumbling which reminded us of the food which one of us had packed from home. We found a peaceful place – an old temple in the middle of paddy fields. We finished the food & spent some more time watching the Sun going down. And then we headed back home.

Thought coracle ride was of short duration, it was fun sailing on the smoothly flowing river. It was as if sitting in a cradle. How I wished for a coracle ride all the way back to Bangalore from Nanjanagudu :)